Weather in Johannesburg was fantastic, we visited Liliesleaf Farm, in Rivonia and
an awesome craft market in Bryanston. Apart from getting a little lost trying to
get out of the City onto the N14 which would bring me into the Northern Cape,
the trip went very smoothly. The scenery through the farmlands was beautiful,
the stopover at Sun River Lodge in Upington was an absolute treat. The wild flowers
were already starting to bloom from Calvinia to Clanwilliam and from there to
Cape Town the bright green and yellow of the farmlands was almost blinding with
its richness.
In Summary:
Highlights of the trip:
Kariba Ferry
The flight over Vic Falls
Mana Pools
Lake Tanganyika
Great Camp Sites:
Lebanon Citrus Farm - Clanwilliam
Augrabies Falls National Park
El-Fari Ghanzi (awesome ablutions)
Ngepi - Caprivi Strip
Jacobsen's Beach - Kigoma - Lake Tanganyika
Ntchisi Forest Lodge - Malawi
Woodlands - Francistown
Favourite Spots:
Mutinondo Wilderness Camp - Mpika, Zambia
Lake Shore Lodge - Kipili - Lake Tanganyika - Tanzania
Utengule Coffee Farm - Mbeya - Tanzania
Ntchisi Forest Lodge - Malawi
Roads Conditions:
Norther part of Zambia North of Mpika to Tunduma - bad potholes
Tunduma - Sumbawanga - Namanyere - Katavi and Kigoma - shocking deviations to about
80 kms before Kigoma where the new tar road has been opened (roads
will be completed by 2013/2014)
First part of the gravel road to Mana Pools is very corrugated
Fuel:
Unleaded available everywhere including Malawi - carried 20litres for safety
Border Crossing:
Chirundu and Tunduma were hectic, but there were no problems with paperwork at any
border post
Documents: Vehicle registration papers, police clearance, Letter of authorisation from
Finance company
Vehicle:
Daihatsu Terios - only problem one puncture and back number plate fell off
Safety:
Tauts are irritating at the border posts, but never felt threatened or intimidated in any way.
Would I do it again? Solo?
In a heartbeat, but it is more fun to share with others
Thursday, August 16, 2012
Wednesday, August 1, 2012
1st August 2012
The remainder of the trip went by so quickly but was somewhat eventful. From Kigoma
Francis and I drove back down to Namanyere and then to Lake Shore at Kipili, run by
Chris and Louise. What a great place right on the shores of Lake Tanganyika and what
superb hosts. The garden banda on the beach was great, the food was superb, dinner on
the beach every night. Chris, together with Francis, managed to get the rocks out of a tyre
that we had gathered whilst slipping and sliding over very bad roads and fix a slow puncture
on the spare. What a gem of a place. Chris also threw in a sunset cruise which was such
a pleasure.
From there it was back through Sumbawanga and Tunduma to Mbeya. I was now running
one day earlier than expected and Utengule did not have a single room for me for that night.
Sharon very kindly upgraged me to a beautiful suite at no extra cost. Everywhere I went
I was showered with kindness. Utengule is also a lovely place to stay.
The next morning it was through Mbeya and onto a great road through the mountains into
Malawi. First stop was Nkhata Bay for two nights, which was lovely but very crowded,
then it was a lovely drive along the lake to Ntchisi Forest Lodge (another frightful road
that I thought would never end). Tom and Petal were also wonderful hosts and served
great food. I managed the 8km walk up the mountain through the rain forest that they
are doing their utmost to preserve.
Next stop was over the border to Chipata, uneventful and great road. I camped overnight
at Mama Rulas which was very pleasant and had a good run down the Great East Road to
Lusaka which I hit at 4pm on a Friday night. The GPS took me on a great tour of the
suburbs and by the time I got back to Cairo Road, it was jammed with traffic. It took me
some time to push my way through and I camped south of Lusaka. The following morning
I was off early to Livingstone, but when I got there I could not find a suitable campsite
so decided to catch the ferry at Kazangula into Botswana - that was quite some experience.
Shared a campsite with some very kind farmers just over the border and left for Francistown
in the morning. First speeding fine - got away with a few Rand and reached Woodlands
overnight campsite which was also very comfortable - spotless pool, great ablutions.
The next day reached Gaberone and decided to cross the border into SA. Spent the night
in a honemoon suite, hot bath, very comfortable. The following morning it was a short
drive to Johannesburg to stay with Clive Carr and have a couple of days r and r, also
replace my number plate which I lost somewhere in Tanzania. Wonderful stay and should
be making my way home on Friday, arriving Saturday, having had the most amazing trip.
Hope to add photos on my return.
The remainder of the trip went by so quickly but was somewhat eventful. From Kigoma
Francis and I drove back down to Namanyere and then to Lake Shore at Kipili, run by
Chris and Louise. What a great place right on the shores of Lake Tanganyika and what
superb hosts. The garden banda on the beach was great, the food was superb, dinner on
the beach every night. Chris, together with Francis, managed to get the rocks out of a tyre
that we had gathered whilst slipping and sliding over very bad roads and fix a slow puncture
on the spare. What a gem of a place. Chris also threw in a sunset cruise which was such
a pleasure.
From there it was back through Sumbawanga and Tunduma to Mbeya. I was now running
one day earlier than expected and Utengule did not have a single room for me for that night.
Sharon very kindly upgraged me to a beautiful suite at no extra cost. Everywhere I went
I was showered with kindness. Utengule is also a lovely place to stay.
The next morning it was through Mbeya and onto a great road through the mountains into
Malawi. First stop was Nkhata Bay for two nights, which was lovely but very crowded,
then it was a lovely drive along the lake to Ntchisi Forest Lodge (another frightful road
that I thought would never end). Tom and Petal were also wonderful hosts and served
great food. I managed the 8km walk up the mountain through the rain forest that they
are doing their utmost to preserve.
Next stop was over the border to Chipata, uneventful and great road. I camped overnight
at Mama Rulas which was very pleasant and had a good run down the Great East Road to
Lusaka which I hit at 4pm on a Friday night. The GPS took me on a great tour of the
suburbs and by the time I got back to Cairo Road, it was jammed with traffic. It took me
some time to push my way through and I camped south of Lusaka. The following morning
I was off early to Livingstone, but when I got there I could not find a suitable campsite
so decided to catch the ferry at Kazangula into Botswana - that was quite some experience.
Shared a campsite with some very kind farmers just over the border and left for Francistown
in the morning. First speeding fine - got away with a few Rand and reached Woodlands
overnight campsite which was also very comfortable - spotless pool, great ablutions.
The next day reached Gaberone and decided to cross the border into SA. Spent the night
in a honemoon suite, hot bath, very comfortable. The following morning it was a short
drive to Johannesburg to stay with Clive Carr and have a couple of days r and r, also
replace my number plate which I lost somewhere in Tanzania. Wonderful stay and should
be making my way home on Friday, arriving Saturday, having had the most amazing trip.
Hope to add photos on my return.
Tuesday, July 17, 2012
Next Leg
My apologies for lack of blog. Network service is very scarce in many parts of the areas I have visited.
The flight over the Victoria Falls in a helicopter was just awesome and we have some great pics to show.
The walk through the rain forest was also amazing and we were all well and truly soaked.
From there it was to Mlibizi to catch the Kariba Ferry. What a stunning trip. Getting the vehicles on board
was quite interesting and from there we put our feet up on deck, read books, ate great food and drank lots
of beer. Graham and Peter sampled some local brew. We all slept on deck and docked in Kariba after
breakfast the next morning - 22 hours in all.
From there it was to Mana Pools where we had booked a 'Lodge'. It was hardly necessary to leave
our braai area. Elephant sauntered past and scratched themselves on the trees in our 'garden', we watched
crocs eat an impala a few metres away, hippo Mum and babe grazed around us. It was truly amazing.
We also walked with a guide into the bush and became surrounded by lion, which we thought were
lying in ambush. We retreated hurriedly when we heard a growling lion, jumped into the car and went
to investigate - lionesses with three week old cubs. We were the first in the camp to know about them.
Sadly I parted from the family after Mana. They are now home safely. I entered Zambia at Chirundu,
which was interesting to say the least! Headed through Lusaka, managed to go up two one way streets
the wrong way, whilst taking direction from 'Matilda' on the dashboard. Finally made it to Fringilla
Farm, about 60kms north, which was great.
The following day left a bit late had to bank and get petrol and then took the Great North Road, which
is just potholes and trucks and arrived to meet friends at Mutinondo Wilderness Camp with a slow
puncture. Mike and Lari were just awesome hosts, it was fantastic to catch up with them, as Mike's
family looked after me when I was very young. I recommend Mutinondo as a stop over. Went
walking in the wilderness along the river and out with Mike and Lari taking the dogs for a walk.
We found lion footprints the next morning!
The crossing to Tanzania through Tunduma was hectic, roads bad again, got through just before closing
and spent a lovely evening at Utengule. The next morning I met with the driver Francis, thanks to
my nephew Max in Dar. Could not have done this bit without him.
Roads are terrible, parks expensive, but we enjoyed Katavi. Game are very shy because they seldom
meet with vehicles. Kigoma has been wonderful. Great to swim in fresh water lake. Will leave for
Kipili tomorrow further down the lake for a few days of R and R.
The flight over the Victoria Falls in a helicopter was just awesome and we have some great pics to show.
The walk through the rain forest was also amazing and we were all well and truly soaked.
From there it was to Mlibizi to catch the Kariba Ferry. What a stunning trip. Getting the vehicles on board
was quite interesting and from there we put our feet up on deck, read books, ate great food and drank lots
of beer. Graham and Peter sampled some local brew. We all slept on deck and docked in Kariba after
breakfast the next morning - 22 hours in all.
From there it was to Mana Pools where we had booked a 'Lodge'. It was hardly necessary to leave
our braai area. Elephant sauntered past and scratched themselves on the trees in our 'garden', we watched
crocs eat an impala a few metres away, hippo Mum and babe grazed around us. It was truly amazing.
We also walked with a guide into the bush and became surrounded by lion, which we thought were
lying in ambush. We retreated hurriedly when we heard a growling lion, jumped into the car and went
to investigate - lionesses with three week old cubs. We were the first in the camp to know about them.
Sadly I parted from the family after Mana. They are now home safely. I entered Zambia at Chirundu,
which was interesting to say the least! Headed through Lusaka, managed to go up two one way streets
the wrong way, whilst taking direction from 'Matilda' on the dashboard. Finally made it to Fringilla
Farm, about 60kms north, which was great.
The following day left a bit late had to bank and get petrol and then took the Great North Road, which
is just potholes and trucks and arrived to meet friends at Mutinondo Wilderness Camp with a slow
puncture. Mike and Lari were just awesome hosts, it was fantastic to catch up with them, as Mike's
family looked after me when I was very young. I recommend Mutinondo as a stop over. Went
walking in the wilderness along the river and out with Mike and Lari taking the dogs for a walk.
We found lion footprints the next morning!
The crossing to Tanzania through Tunduma was hectic, roads bad again, got through just before closing
and spent a lovely evening at Utengule. The next morning I met with the driver Francis, thanks to
my nephew Max in Dar. Could not have done this bit without him.
Roads are terrible, parks expensive, but we enjoyed Katavi. Game are very shy because they seldom
meet with vehicles. Kigoma has been wonderful. Great to swim in fresh water lake. Will leave for
Kipili tomorrow further down the lake for a few days of R and R.
Sunday, July 1, 2012
Day 8
Woke up to a hippo in the next campsite to ours, just a few bushes between us - close encounter.
Took a drive through the Part, visited Popa Falls which were a little disappointing. Had an
awesome trip on the river. Saw great birds (including white backed night heron). Went up close
to young crocs.
Day 9
Had an easy trip to Katima and camped on the banks of the Zambezi, absolutely stunning sunrise
and sunset. Saw elephant on the way into the camp.
Day 10
Katima to Vic Falls. Road good, 4 border posts and a 1.5 hour wait for fuel. Were able to
stock up with food. The girls have been absolutely amazing, no moans or groans, they are
thoroughly enjoying the trip. In a couple of hours we are going to do a helicopter trip over the
falls.....more late. Will try to get some pics up.
Thursday, June 28, 2012
Day 1 - 7 According to Camryn.
Day 1 - Lebanon Citrus Farm, Clanwilliam.
Bathrooms were nice. Dad & Peter saw 2 Woodpeckers.Met a wet cat named Moggy Sanchez!Drove 10km in mud to get there. Weather- lots of fog and rain. The only thing that seperated us from the loos was an aeroplane runway!Don't worry Astrid, we took tons of photos :) We will try to send
a lovely one of the Pakhuis Pass that you will remember.
Day 2 & 3- Augrabies Falls Camp AKA Monkey heaven.
We arrived at the camp in darkness.The campsite was great and had laundry rooms and stoves. Their was a group of very naughty monkeys that stole a slice of bread and Energade Jellies from Gran's car!Augrabies Falls was a memorable experiance that was shared by some Dussies. I was lucky enough to see the Canons Creek combi ( I took a picture for you, Caitlin). After some bad chicken Schnitzels, Ciara and Gran were a "little" under the weather. The coldest temperature was -2 degrees = frost all over the tent.
Day 4- Berry Bush Camp, Tsabong.
While driving, my dad took a chance by deciding not to fill up on pertol at Tsabong and ended up with a litre left in his tank!His range was 0kms for 30 minutes.Loved the bomas and cute 'lil dogs there! It was absolutely FREEZING! More frost on... everything!Happy Birthday to Ciara! (who spent her birthday in the car - as you will soon find out!)We had for everything to defrost, so we could leave for Ghanzi. Border crossing at Mcarthy's Rest was a breeze. We had to remove the
"slime" out of Gran's tyres, it caused a terrible wheel wobble that was most uncomfortable.
Day 5 - Elfari Camp, Ghanzi.
It was a veerrry long drive to Ghanzi. It had the best bathrooms and showers. More woodpeckers were seen there.We found some cow prints on the sand near our Camp. All we can say, is that it was the best outdoor experience for us.Once AGAIN, it was cold but fortunately no frost.
Day 6&7 - Ngepi Camp, Namibia.
There were bad potholes in the road and it was pretty hot in the car. The border at Mahembo was smooth and we found 3 spiders on the ceiling!Lots of game on the road accompanied by some donkeys, horses and some cattle. Arriving at Ngepi was our funniest! The bathrooms are the best part! Open to the air with sticks labelled, "door" and we even found a toilet named,"Poop a falls".(It was about 7 meters in the air). Our campsite is a hippo playground. The next day was spent eating a very delicious brunch which was ended by a cute dog finishing Chelsea's leftovers.( Chelsea got permission to give it to him). Our afternoon was spent swimming in a cage pool in the river. We came back and heard lots of loud & proud hippo grunts!(Although we didn't actually see any hippo).
By Camryn Jade Dawes.
Bathrooms were nice. Dad & Peter saw 2 Woodpeckers.Met a wet cat named Moggy Sanchez!Drove 10km in mud to get there. Weather- lots of fog and rain. The only thing that seperated us from the loos was an aeroplane runway!Don't worry Astrid, we took tons of photos :) We will try to send
a lovely one of the Pakhuis Pass that you will remember.
Day 2 & 3- Augrabies Falls Camp AKA Monkey heaven.
We arrived at the camp in darkness.The campsite was great and had laundry rooms and stoves. Their was a group of very naughty monkeys that stole a slice of bread and Energade Jellies from Gran's car!Augrabies Falls was a memorable experiance that was shared by some Dussies. I was lucky enough to see the Canons Creek combi ( I took a picture for you, Caitlin). After some bad chicken Schnitzels, Ciara and Gran were a "little" under the weather. The coldest temperature was -2 degrees = frost all over the tent.
Day 4- Berry Bush Camp, Tsabong.
While driving, my dad took a chance by deciding not to fill up on pertol at Tsabong and ended up with a litre left in his tank!His range was 0kms for 30 minutes.Loved the bomas and cute 'lil dogs there! It was absolutely FREEZING! More frost on... everything!Happy Birthday to Ciara! (who spent her birthday in the car - as you will soon find out!)We had for everything to defrost, so we could leave for Ghanzi. Border crossing at Mcarthy's Rest was a breeze. We had to remove the
"slime" out of Gran's tyres, it caused a terrible wheel wobble that was most uncomfortable.
Day 5 - Elfari Camp, Ghanzi.
It was a veerrry long drive to Ghanzi. It had the best bathrooms and showers. More woodpeckers were seen there.We found some cow prints on the sand near our Camp. All we can say, is that it was the best outdoor experience for us.Once AGAIN, it was cold but fortunately no frost.
Day 6&7 - Ngepi Camp, Namibia.
There were bad potholes in the road and it was pretty hot in the car. The border at Mahembo was smooth and we found 3 spiders on the ceiling!Lots of game on the road accompanied by some donkeys, horses and some cattle. Arriving at Ngepi was our funniest! The bathrooms are the best part! Open to the air with sticks labelled, "door" and we even found a toilet named,"Poop a falls".(It was about 7 meters in the air). Our campsite is a hippo playground. The next day was spent eating a very delicious brunch which was ended by a cute dog finishing Chelsea's leftovers.( Chelsea got permission to give it to him). Our afternoon was spent swimming in a cage pool in the river. We came back and heard lots of loud & proud hippo grunts!(Although we didn't actually see any hippo).
By Camryn Jade Dawes.
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